Friday 30 May 2014

Day 2 of sightseeing in the Tricity

After the Old Town in Gdansk it was a time show my Aussie friend recent history of the town. I heard of a new museum Roads to Freedom and that it was a must to see. For some reason I had not seen it before. I was not even sure how to get there even if I knew that is was not far away from the shipyard. I must have passed it in my walks to the green market or the Old Town but somehow never saw an entrance to the museum. In my role of a tourist guide, which I played not all that brilliantly, I was supposed to know how to get there without any  hiccups. So I checked the situation in internet. I knew the street but why didn’t I see the entrance when passing the place? When we were near the museum I understood.  Not a salubrious entrance but communistic times were not salubrious times and this is what the museum shows. The museum is going to move in the near future to the still being build European Solidarity Center. I pass this impressive building often and it grows fast. Next time I come to Gdansk it will be most likely ready. I cannot wait.


But back to The Roads to Freedom. We walked down the stairs leading old shabby environment showing us how it was before Poland re-gained its freedom. We bought our tickets looking like old fashion cards from the time of martial law in 1981-83.  I believe that the ration cards were used for longer than this period. The first exhibits show typical Polish shop of the times. Not much there, vinegar and mustard were on the shelves, other things may have been available for the chosen ones but they were under the counter rather than displayed.

This is how the typical shop looked like. The men on the left just managed to buy toilet paper and this was the way to carry an unexpected purchase.
                                  
The museum covers the modern history of Poland, the events I was not aware of even if I lived in Poland in the 70ties.  I was in Gdansk in January 1971 learning about programming in Cobol and PLAN, the ICL assembly language. Memories, memories... That aside, December 1970 was a tragic time for Gdansk and its shipyard workers who protested against sudden increase of food and other everyday items. As the result of riots which were brutally put down 42 people were killed and over 1,000 wounded.
The events were not covered by news, they were the times the government could hide such things. Not to people of Gdansk, of course, they were involved themselves and saw things happening. My Polish neighbour, who worked at the time in a pharmacy, remembers the panic and how she was helping to sterilise surgical instruments in a great hurry. One month later nobody wanted to talk to me, a girl from Warsaw, about what happened. It was not safe to talk. I knew that something horrible did happen but it was only when visiting the museum I put the pieces of the puzzle together. If you are surprised at my ignorance I left Poland in 1976 and now I am catching up with my Polish history knowledge.

The museum has a multimedia tour covering events from 1956 to 1989. I would recommend using the audio tour and sit for a while at the computers reading the stories of the times. It is all both in English and Polish. And very inexpensive.


I like one of the last exhibits, domino of abolishing communism, with Poland starting the chain of changes.

                                        


I got carried away writing more than planned so the second part of the sightseeing day 2 – lunch in Polish style will be a subject of my next post.

6 comments:

  1. Vinegar and mustard on shelves of the shops. Yes, I remember this. My wife still tells everybody how difficult it was to feed us and our 2 little children. Still, miraculously, I haven't ever met a malnourished person in Poland at that time. And we were not "chosen people".

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  2. I fully agree Leszku, I have not starved either. But haven't we lived outside Poland at the worse times? I did.
    Starving Pole seems to be a strange idea though. Polak potrafi!
    Life must have been very hard and a lot of time was spent on chasing opportunities to buy food rather than concentrating on what we consider a normal life.

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    1. You touched a good point - lot of time was spent on chasing opportunities to buy food rather than concentrating on what we consider a normal life.
      Well - chasing opportunities brought many fruits of small victories and satisfactions. And what brings so called "normal life"? Shopping for absolutely not needed gadgets, spending long hours in front of TV or computer screen.
      And when talking about time spent chasing opportunities, it happens in FREE world too - what about people who get up at 2 am on Boxing Day and wait hours in front of Myer store? In "communist" Poland the normal way of life was to spend 2 days of Christmas with family and friends.

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    2. Hi, are you missing the old "good" times? I do agree with the points you make. Only that then we did not have a choice and now have freedom to make bad choices. Or good ones.

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  3. Sorry I have been preoccupied and have been remiss on visiting friends' blogs. And I am glad to see that in the meanwhile you have posted again and the post takes me back to our own rationing days and socialism. I had to move heaven and earth to get a metal token to get one liter of milk per day when our son was born! On my sales tours outside Mumbai I used to return with up to five kgs of rice and on a couple of occasions onions from the rural parts. This was way back in the early seventies and things started to improver from about the late seventies and now when I talk about those days, young people cannot even imagine that things could have been that bad!

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  4. Hi Ramana, thank you for coming back and it is really nice to be considered a friend.
    It amazes me again and again that India and Poland have so many similarities. I did not know about rationing in your country. Socialism had such power to made normal countries function badly. My friend Pharlap, sees pluses in the system that did not require catching up with the Joneses. This and the ready access to culture I see as pluses of the old days. I would not go back there though.

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