Shakespeare in Love in Gdansk

Encouraged by comments to my previous post, I continue the list of my recent Polish impressions. The next item on the list is the Gdansk Shakespeare Theatre and the play I saw there Shakespeare in Love.

                                      

The film, on which screenplay the theatre version is based, was popular, but I saw only fragments of it on TV some years ago and have no comparison to the recently seen its theatrical version. The play was originally produced on the West End in 2014 and the Polish premiere was this year. As I have not been before to the newly open Gdansk Shakespeare Theatre I decided to see the play together with my friends. We really wanted to see the theatre in action as all of us are moderately keen on Elizabethan style productions but this play was the only option at the time. What neither of us particularly like is the ribald atmosphere and language of such plays. While my friends kept their intellectual expectations of the performance, I went with the flow and thoroughly enjoyed the energy of mostly young actors, costumes and choreography of the rather risky and showy movements. And I loved the performance of the dog! Apparently, the English canine actor was also very good, but I could not believe the composure and quality of acting of the funny Polish little French bulldog. Generally, the acting was based on artistry of the movements rather than on deep and meaningful dialogs. It was fun. Basic and crude? Yes. Still very enjoyable and very well performed.

It is an acquired taste and it grows on you as one finds out more about its story.

                             

Now the theatre... I was again very impressed by its architecture, functionality and the technical solutions.  Walking around this very new and modern theatre a couple of years ago, I was disappointed by the black cube plonked very close to the old town. I thought, how morbid and depressing.  I guess that many may see it still as an unattractive building. I, however, changed my mind and am in awe of it.  Apparently, Gdansk was a popular destination for English travelling players in the first half of the 17^th century. Each summer the English troupes visited this Hanseatic town with their plays performed in the Gdansk first public playhouse called The Fencing School. The building stood at the same place as the current Shakespeare Theatre and it looked similar to the current building. Come to think about it none theatre has a need for windows. They somehow do, though, even if there is no need thfor it. At least they have imposing entrance with columns or other ornaments. The Gdansk Shakespeare Theatre dos not have any of that, even the entrance is pretty much disguised so the black cube looks very sombre. Similarly The Fencing Scholl was a no frills building.

The Fencing School, engraving from 1687

     

Inside there are three levels of galleries running along three walls. The theatre does not seem big and I was surprised to find out that has the capacity to sit 600 people. As it is the theatre in the Elizabethan manner, there is place for standing audience on all levels.

                                  

One of the attraction is the retractable roof that opens and closes in three minutes. I did not expect to see it in action and was very nicely surprised to see the sunlight suddenly streaming into the theatre. Early start at 4:30 of the performances made sense. We were supposed to see the roof in action as well as the play.

Renatto Rizzi on the roof of the theatre (the roof opened) . I like this photo, it shows what a small man can achieve through his genius. There is some loneliness in the image as well. They say creating is a lonely preoccupation.

                       

The theatre was built by an Italian architect Renatto Rizzi and modelled on earlier theatres. The result is a spectacular Black Box building harmoniously mixing old with modern.

Building of the theatre was a really international affair. Charles, Prince of Wales is its patron and he has been actually involved in some of the theatre issues. In July this year, Prince William and his wife Catherine visited the theatre to see a short play and meet people of the theatre. Links with the British royal family continue.

Returning to post

I has been a while and since I posted and it is difficult to pin point one reason for it. I had some technical problems and had to live without internet for some weeks. Again! I have not felt all that well as my heart has not been beating evenly and this slows me down. I have been having some sort of identity crises swapping Australian kind of life for a Polish one. The last is not really a problem, rather something positive, but I must say it is confusing having the two identities in me and swapping them depending on current place of residence.

For now, I seem to prefer my Polish life style to the Sydney one and I hope it will change again in few weeks as Australia is my home and I want to have genuine and positive feelings about living there. The life I lead now is the result of the choices I have made over the years. Nobody to blame or to thank for but myself. I always thought that the choice for Australia was a brilliant one and I loved my Aussie life for many years. Then few things changed and some of the things I loved about my life in Sydney disappeared. A lot good things are still there for me, but Poland is a competition.

I have been visiting Poland almost every year for the last decade and each time I stay in my beautiful Gdansk. I call the place “my” even if my adventure with Gdansk started only recently. The place grew on me with each visit, there is some magic to this part of Poland and I am not the only person who thinks that. My best Polish friend who lives in Warsaw also says that there is magic in the Tricity. She is right.

Even if I do not want to compare the two countries and understand that it is not possible to do that sensibly, I catch myself on random thoughts giving Poland advantage over some aspects of my Australian life. This is only a temporary feeling, I know (or hope?). I believe, I will come to my senses soon. But for now, I am enchanted by Gdansk.

What is it that makes me see Poland in rosy colours? It is definitely not the politics or general characteristics of the “Polish nature”. They are sad, confusing things that worry me a lot but I do not want to think about them now. Many small, rather insignificant things add up and make me feel comfortable and satisfy my need of beauty in life.

Old Europe has its undisputed charms and Poland and particularly Gdansk are a part of it. When I stroll to the green market I am already in the Old Town of Gdansk or rather The Main Town as it is correctly called. I make a little detour for coffee in the Long Market, sit in an outside garden of a coffee place; read or watch passers-by. They are many of them and various nations, as I am always here in a tourist season. This is like a sitting form of flâneuring. They are very pleasant moments allowing for observations of people and surrounding architecture originating in XVI and XVII centuries. There is time for reflection and a bit of philosophising. Life in a slow movement…
                                                              
                                                                     

                                        

It does not take any effort to pay a visit to local Museum to see the famous Last Judgement painted by Hans Memling in the XV century. I just discovered that the famous painting has links with Florence, the place that fascinates me.      

                                                 

                    

The exhibition of the museum is more substantial than it has been some years ago. There are wonderful medieval treasures in form of sculptures, embroidery, the gold and silversmith art. There is also a good representation of Dutch paintings. I left the place with a WOW feeling.

Poland is not a rich country, but certain decisions of the town authorities contradict that. If there is going to be a fence in the town it is made of a wrought iron and is of the old-fashioned design and quality. There is a lot of granite as parts of pavements and the cobble stones are individually placed when repairs are needed. Some years ago, I saw asphalt street being ripped off and replaced with granite cubes for the street to look as it originally did some centuries ago. Not a short street, I must add.

Rides by public transport in Poland are free for retirees, not like in Australia only cheaper than for those who pay full fares. I am not trying to say that the Polish retirees lead a good life. Just the opposite, Australia better takes care of its older citizens.

Tram stops have light displays showing the forthcoming trams and times to departure. And this is 100% accurate, no need to use the information from a mobile. While traveling on a tram, the stops are announced. I was rather surprised on one of my first tram trips when I heard the announcement sang to the tune of the Bizet’s toreador song. It was announcing The Baltic Opera stop. Just before I managed to get over the nice surprise, a voice of a small child told me the next stop will be the stop by the Children Theatre. I hesitated if I should not travel to the end of the route just to hear the announcements. I lately discovered that the two announcements may be the only ones.

It is very nice and decadent to ask for half a kilo of blueberries and pay around 4 A$ for it. Raspberries and strawberries are also a reason for a great indulgence at a small cost.

                                                                   

In my kitchen after the visit at the green market

I just realised that I may have overdone in compensating for my break in posting, so I stop here even if my list of nice things about Poland is not finished yet.