Christmas Eve Polish style Wigilia

Christmas Eve Polish style Wigilia

(Polish pronunciation: [viˈɡilja])

Here I go again. It will be about Poland. As Christmas is coming my thoughts go back to Poland more often than normally. It all links to old days which left their stamp on me. I like best my memories related to Wigilia.

For Poles, wherever they are, the most beloved and beautiful of all traditional festivities is that of Christmas Eve. It is then that the Wigilia, or Christmas Eve Dinner is served. It is a solemnly celebrated occasion and arouses deep feelings of kinship among family members.

For days in advance, Poles prepare the traditional foods and everyone anxiously awaits the moment when the first star, known as the Gwiazdka, appears in the eastern sky. For that is when the feast to commemorate the birth of the Christ Child begins.

There is always a thin layer of hay under the white tablecloth in memory of the Godchild in the manger (no idea where I could find hay in Sydney, now that I missed my lawn mowing opportunity). Before sitting down at the table, everyone breaks the traditional wafer (Oplatek) and exchanges good wishes for health, wealth and happiness in the New Year. This is such a deeply moving moment that often tears of love and joy are evoked from the family members who are breaking this symbolic bread. The Oplatek is a thin, unleavened wafer similar to the altar bread in the Roman Catholic Church. It is stamped with the figures of the Godchild, the blessed Mary, and the holy angels. The wafer is known as the bread of love and is often sent by mail to the absent members of the family. This is a beautiful form of symbolic sharing.

The dinner itself differs from other evening meals in that the number of courses is fixed at seven, nine or twelve. According to myth, in no case must there be an odd number of people at the table, otherwise it is said that some of the feasters would not live to see another Christmas. A lit candles placed in the windows symbolise the hope that the Godchild, in the form of a stranger, may come to share the Wigilia and an extra place is set at the table for the unexpected guest. This belief stems from the ancient Polish adage, "A guest at home is God at home."

The Wigilia is a meatless meal, no doubt the result of a long-time Church mandate that a strict fast and abstinence be observed on this day before Christmas. Although the Church laws have been revised and permit meat to be eaten on this day, my Wigilia  meal remains meatless. Items that would normally be included in a traditional Wigilia menu include mushroom soup or borscht, boiled potatoes, pickled herring (sledzie), fried fish, pierogi, beans and sauerkraut, a dried fruit compote, assorted pastries, nuts and candies.

After the meal the members of the family sing Polish Christmas Carols called koledy while the children wait impatiently around the Christmas tree (choinka) for the gifts to be exchanged.

Christmas tree in a Polish home

My last year’s Wigilia was very traditional and prepared jointly with my Australian friends. There are various opinions how many dishes should be served at Wigilia.   I adopted the versions of 12 apostles, 12 months in the year so there were 12 dishes. It was definitely an indecent  way of overeating.

Cold dishes

1.      Herring with onion in oil – Vodka – Żubrówka

2.      White fish in aspic

3.     Vegetable and potatoes  salad

Warm dishes

4.      Borscht

5.      Pierogi (Polish ravioli) with sauerkraut and mushrooms

6.      Sauerkraut with split pea and mushrooms

7.      Poached Salmon

8.      Baked Potatoes

9.      Vegetables with Polish dressing of bread crumbs and butter

Deserts

10.  Piernik – Spice/Ginger cake

11.  Makowiec - Poppy seed cake

12.  Dry fruit and spices compote 

Returning to blogging

I have had a long break in writing. When I look for excuses, I find some.

My readers had problems to leave their comments. I tried to change the situation but for a long while to no avail. I believe that it is now corrected but I am not sure if my new solution is not dependent on the technical internet setup of the reader.

Then I wanted to concentrate on my internet presence as a career transition coach. I considered blogging as a time consuming interruption in what is most important to me – coaching as an ability to help others to live better, happier, more fulfilling lives.

There was also another, perhaps the most important reason for not writing. I came back home to Sydney and my Polish inspirations disappeared. I still am not certain what I will be “observing” now. I feel like I need a theme. I had not intended to write about Poland when I started blogging but as I found myself in Poland and friends showed some interest in the country I started to see things I had not been aware of earlier and I wrote about them.

For years I considered myself 100% Australian, ignoring what I have been recently reminded of – my heavy foreign accent. The accent has become more pronounced after my sojourns in Poland. At the same time staying in Poland for extended periods of time made me re-discover the beauty and character of my home country.

I am reading Diaries of Judy Cassab. Famous Australian painter of Hungarian background. She writes about herself and migrants in general: “Without the familiar background no one is quite themselves, not in the eyes of the other or in their own. If one rebels too strongly one destroys one’s soul. If one gives in, one stops living. Is there a solution at all?”

This sounds very dramatic to me but still, I recognise some of my dilemmas in what she writes.

So what I intend to write about, what will be objects of my observations and musing? Not sure yet.

However, I promise myself to blog regularly from now on. I may find my theme in time.

Walesa - Man of Hope

Most of the world knows that Lech Walesa had a special role in turning over communism in Europe. I like to think that the demise of communism in all Eastern Block countries started from his heroic jump over the Gdansk shipyard fence. I am not going to write about Polish history of the 1980ies. I was not even in Poland then. I left the country 15 years earlier and all events of the times were as difficult to understand for me as for any other Australian. I went back to Poland in 2004. It was the day of Poland becoming a part European Union. One may say that I left a communistic country and returned to a true European one. It was a huge gap to fill in with the knowledge of the events and political and social transformation of Poland. I have not closed the gap yet and perhaps never will close it properly. When I came back to Poland I came to live in Gdansk, Walesa’s town. The town where most of the transformation events took place.







From my place I could see the cranes of the Gdansk shipyard. I did not like them at first, they are not that beautiful after all. I always liked old churches, castles and palaces for their beauty. Shipyard cranes? No, this was not what I would consider of any interest to me. But, this has changed with time and when I pass them now my heart jumps a bit. Jumps with gratitude and admiration for all the people who worked, fought there and even died. And this gratitude is directed to Lech Walesa above all others.
 
Walesa is recognised in the world and his Nobel price considered as well deserved. Not so in Poland. His position and reputation is not that of a hero. He is despised by big percentage of Poles and considered an enemy #1 by the current Solidarity. The same Solidarity Union he made famous in the world and the force he lead through the difficult days of strikes, deadly fights with militia, negotiations with the communistic government and finally to the victory. These days, at August anniversaries of Solidarity, he is a lonely man, coming early in the morning to lay flowers at the Three Crosses of Fallen Shipyard Workers. He would be abused if he tried to join official celebrations later on in the day. Lech Walesa co-founder and the first chairman of the “S” - Solidarity is now seen as the enemy of shipyard workers by a big percentage of Poles.

Three Crosses Monument in front of the main entrance to the Gdansk Shipyard

I still wonder how it is possible to ignore his past and twist facts around. Of course he is not a saint and he is very outspoken when expressing his views. His criticism of people and events, he does not approve of, is violent and his choice of words unmercifully hurtful. He has raffled many fathers of politicians with different views to his own. He is also an easy target to criticise as he is not a cultured man. He makes many, sometimes funny, mistakes in his speeches and interviews. But he is not a shy man and he voices his opinions loudly and provocatively. Having a week spot for him, even I find him at times embarrassing. But he is still my imperfect hero.
Walesa. Man of Hope a new film directed by Andrzej Wajda opened in Poland in September. I would very much like to see it and hope it will be screened in Australia some day or I must see it when in Poland. The film has been selected as an Oscar candidate for the best foreign-language film. I will keep my fingers crossed even if I do not give the film great chances. However The Guardian review is positive.

http://www.theguardian.com/film/2013/oct/11/walesa-london-film-festival-review-nobel-peace-prize

After a long break

I have been neglecting my blog very badly. There are some excuses I could make to feel better. One of them is technical problems I am not able to solve in spite of trying many different approaches. The long standing problem concerns some readers not being able to write comments to my posts. For me a big part of blogging fun and value is to exchange comments with those who are interested in what I write and what could be a common interest. Since I do not have any more ideas what could be changed or done to solve the problem I am considering switching to Wordpress. I know that this is a rather dramatic solution and I feel defeated by technology but this seems to be least time consuming solution.

Being in Australia I feel an Australian again and Polish subjects are not that close to my heart at the moment. For some time, however, I thought of writing about Lech Walesa. When leaving Poland from the airport named after the man and seeing his huge picture taking the whole wall I felt deep gratitude for him. In my opinion, he changed the history of Poland. I plan that my next post will be about Walesa.

Finding my feet

I have been back in Sydney four days. This was not such a joyous return as I imagined earlier. Not being able to use my right hand has a lot to do with my current mood. I am managing better and better but I am still very much restricted. Immobilised right wrist slows down all that I do and makes it difficult to keep negative thoughts away.

Paul Blythe in the recent post of his blog (beinginspiring.net) says “we need to be deliberate about the quality of our thoughts”. I am afraid that I need to work in this area a lot harder than I have done to improve quality of my thoughts. By the way, I find Paul’s blog really inspiring as its name indicates.

At the same time the Sydney weather is fantastic and maybe my luck will change soon so this is time to make happy plans for my Sydney life. Catching up with friends, re-establishing myself at home and making it my place again, making plans for home improvements, reading favourite books, progressing with my coaching plans, learning new things, this is all happy and uplifting. And this is what I will focus on.

Coming Home

It has been a while since I placed my last post. I guess I felt sorry for myself and was nursing my broken wrist plus elbow. I am still not back to normal but I discovered yesterday that I can use my right hand while working on my computer.This is worth celebrating with a short post.

My sojourn in Gdańsk will finish in few hours. I am going back to Sydney tomorrow morning and I am looking forward to going home. Very much really. As my friend Virginia says, another New Beginning. And this always brings new promises, new plans, fun and new hopes. Going back and see my friends is always a very good thing. There will be many occasions to catch up, have many meals together, long talks, long walks and healthy life style.

I planned to write about chestnut trees while in Poland. About flowering with their cream candelabras in Polish HSC exams time and dropping their rusty colour fruits down the parks alleys when students go back to school in September. Ach, this is a Polish romantic waking up in me... As it is, I will perhaps write about Polish health system which proved to be a big challenge to me and dampened my patriotic enthusiasm a bit. I guess my view on one of my two homelands gained a better balance and perspective

Slow in posting

Lately I placed my posts seldom and irregularly.First it was caused by not having access to internet when in Busko and now I have broke my right hand which makes it difficult to write but not impossible. I am writing my excuses hoping to get some sympathy. So many plans have to be changed now and I have to slow down, this is all depressing. I intend to use this time as well as I can, though. Any ideas?

Life in Polish Spa - Busko-Zdrój

 

Coat of arms of Busko-Zdrój - it has reputation of being a sunny place 

Busko-Zdrój is a Polish health resort. The health resorts are very different in Poland to what an Australian person may imagine, unless the person has read some novels about spa life in the XIX and beginning of XX century. Health resort here is about slow, non-sporty life. There are tennis courts but I have not seen anyone playing on them as yet. Mind you, I have been here only four days.

When I think about a spa I imagine ladies in flimsy dresses, hats with big rims carrying lacy umbrellas. In my imagination, they either take a walk down shady alleys protecting their complexion from unwanted sun, sipping their spa waters. They are surrounded by admirers or sit in coffee places smoking cigarettes in long cigarette holders, drinking their aperitifs. To me an old fashioned spa is flappers territory. I am not sure if my romantic imagination did not take me in a wrong direction, though. Spas were also places to cure people who were not well or at least thought they needed extra attention. Leaving my imagination populated by beautiful, flirty flappers aside, I will move on to my observations and experience of the last four days.

Current Europe, Poland included, is more egalitarian than in was in the period between the World Wars however there are two social categories of guests here. People who stay in elegant and expensive sanatoria and people who stay in rented rooms belonging to the locals. The first group eats in their canteens which are sometimes elegant and sometimes not so much. The second group has a choice where they want to go for their meals or they may want to prepare some of it themselves. However what two of the groups have in common are health treatments. All guests take sulphide or iodide-bromide baths, drink curative waters from natural springs, take inhalations, massages, compresses, water jets and similar. This needs to be supervised by a doctor, so the first day in a Polish spa starts with a visit to a doctor who chooses appropriate treatments. Typically people are prescribed 2-4 treatments per day. A day here starts early, my day today started with a massage at 7am, it was followed by a sulphide baths which is supposed to be good for one and cures many ailments then inhalations completed my today’s spa program. It all finished before 9.00 a.m. Obviously, I had a good planner organising my treatments.

I am here with my friend who has some health interest in this particular spa. I accompany her for fun mainly as I do not have problems Busko specialises in curing. Its waters and climate address different problems. However, I am here in a good company, having fun with my student friend and I was not about to miss out on the Busko routine while here. Just in case any of the readers think of curing some rheumatic or bone related problems, Busko-Zdrój is the place to do it.   You can have cure and fun for two weeks for less than $200. Plus accommodation and food which may vary a bit but averages $400 for a fortnight.

More exclusive sanatorium option is under $2000 per fortnight.

As I will be here for a while, I will continue with the spa subjects a bit more later. You may wonder what one does with the rest of the days here. There are walks, plenty of restaurants and coffee places to visit, dancing at night and chatting with neighbours or people met at various sanatoria. I expect that there is a degree of gossiping as holiday romances flourish.

Pleasures for older generation

And for the younger ones

I have not mentioned that, age average of the spa visitors is definitely 50+.

Gdańsk or Danzig?



The Gdansk Coat of Arms

Polish  are sensitive about Gdansk being referred to as Danzig but unfortunately this is the name better known by foreigners. It has been always a sensitive issue and I believe that German citizens of Gdańsk do not like its Polish name either. The thing is that the town was ruled by both of the nations for a considerable time.

The town was funded by the first Polish king Mieszko I in 980s. In the early times Gdansk changed hands frequently from Polish Dukes to Pomeralians.  From 1308 till 1454 Gdansk was a part of Teutonic Knights State. Only from 1454 Gdansk became a part of Polish Kingdom and for a considerable time, till 1793 when Poland was partitioned between Prussia, Russia and Austria and disappeared from the map of Europe for a long while. By that time Gdansk citizens were mixed nation, equally of Polish and German background. Both of the languages were used in the town.

After the First World  Gdansk became a free city in 1920.

Following Germany's defeat in World War I, the Allied powers in the Treaty of Versailles (1919) decided to create the Free City of Danzig (under a commissioner appointed by the League of Nations) covering the city itself, the seaport, and a substantial surrounding territory. The League of Nations rejected the citizens' petition to have their city officially named as the Free Hanseatic city of Danzig (Freie Hansestadt Danzig).^[41] The citizens of Danzig received a separate citizenship of the Free City and thus lost their former German citizenship.

This lasted till 1939. For Poland the World War II started in Gdansk, the 1^st of September 1939. And again Gdansk fell into German hands. From 1945 is again a part of the Polish Republic.  One consequence of Gdansk changing hands is a change of all streets names from German to Polish.

My imperfect calculations point to Gdansk being under Teutonic, Prussian or German ruling for about the same time as under Polish. About 300 years each off  and on.

Over the ages some world famous people were born in Gdansk. Among others: Hevelius – astronomer and the founder of lunar topology, Daniel Fahrenheit – father of the temperature scale; Arthur Schopenhauer – philosopher. None of those people are thought as having Polish origin. They were not. At the same time all of them were born in the period when Gdansk was under Polish ruling. This shows the nature of the city, both nations can claim the towns as theirs. This is why we, Poles are so sensitive when the town is referred to as Danzig.  Feelings are not always objective of know history too well.

              

                                                     Fahrenheit House - Gdansk



In one of my earlier posts I wrote about Henry Strassburger – the man of style. Henry is my friend who lives in Australia, in Sydney. His father 

Henryk Leon Strasburger (1887-1951) was a Polish economist, General Commissioner in the Free City of Danzig (now Gdańsk) and delegate to the League of Nations. He was also a member of the Polish government in exile during World War II. According to the New York Times, he was among the earliest and most outspoken of Poles to recognize the Hitler menace to his country. His warning was clear in his book The Case of Danzig, published some months before the outbreak of World War II.^[1]

As the General Commissioner of the Polish Republic he was responsible for liaison between the Senate and the Polish government of the Free City of Gdansk

 My friend Henry was born in Gdansk at Gralathstrasse.  He asked me once to find out what has happened to the house he was born in and find the street. After some enquiries I found out that the current name of the Gralathstrasse is now Hoene-Wronskiego. This is the street I live at when in Gdansk. Nice synchronicity, I think. The street is not long there are only 12 buildings there. All were build at the beginning of the XX century. The house Henry was born belongs to the Medical Academy and the ornaments on its facade indicate that it was maternity ward of the main Gdansk Hospital. It is the house at the corner of the street and my house is at the corner of the other end of the street.    

   

                       

                                                                                            



Sorry, Ray from Mummulgum

Some time ago I wrote about how my old IBM colleague explained to me that patriotism may lead to nationalism and we all know where it can end. Life convinced me that Ray was very right and I rarely display signs of nationalism. One of the reasons is that, as I said to my friend recently, I am confused about me feeling or not feeling European. There is so much of an Aussie in me, you see.

With all of that I see with even more confusion that I am rather nationalistic as far as tennis is concerned. Most of the non-Polish people do not know much about Polish tennis. Frankly there has not been all that much to know. But then it came Radwanska, today world number 3 tennis player.  She has not won yet any of the two most important, in my opinion, competitions– Australian Open or the Wimbledon. I hope there are some chances this year to change the score. She won yesterday over Li Na in a quarter final, nice revenge after the reversed situation in the Australian Open 2013. While I like Li Na and in any other situation I would cheer for her, yesterday was a different story.

My Polish nationalistic pride is getting stronger with each Wimbledon day. Will this last another day or more? I wish!  Today two Polish players – Kubot and Janowicz played against each other in the quarter final.   Beautiful tennis, by the way, I am sorry that my friends in Sydney will most likely not watch the match. The tennis commentators said many times today that there were many Great Slam matches when two Australians played against each other. So for my Aussie compatriots such situation is nothing special but when I put my Polish hat on I am proud that it has happened eventually to Poland as well.

Since yesterday, my cooking has improved as I have a small TV set in the kitchen and while I watch tennis I cook more elaborately than normally. Tonight it was a nice vegetarian dish and a  mandatory glass of red wine to cheer Janowicz victory.

Hurray for two Poles in the Wimbledon semi-final!

Linden trees are in bloom!

It is only lately that I started to notice beauty and details of nature. Trees and flowers open up a new way of experience to me. Well, it is the time in my life to smell the roses. This could be it. Now, that I spend the most beautiful months of the year in Poland I notice its nature in a different, more profound way.

Lindenstrasse today

I suppose I always liked linden trees as they are typically lining up streets making them look like alleys. This effect I always admired. However, I have learnt to notice more than that. Right now linden trees are in bloom. The flowers are not very showy as far as the visual side is concerned but they smell divine.

The street next to the house I stay in when in Poland used to be called  before the II World  War Lindenstrasse. At that time Gdansk was called Danzig and was The Free City of Danzig, half Polish, half German.

The Free City of Danzig (German: Freie Stadt Danzig; Polish: Wolne Miasto Gdańsk) was a semi-autonomous city-state that existed between 1920 and 1939, consisting of the Baltic Sea port of Danzig (today Gdańsk) and surrounding areas. It was created on 15 November 1920^[1][2] in accordance with the terms of Article 100 (Section XI of Part III) of the 1919 Treaty of Versailles.

The German name of the street was fully justified  by the presence of the trees and I am sorry that the name has been changed after the war to the name of Julian Tuwim, a Polish poet. While I love Tuwim’s poems, I would much preferred the exact translation from the old German name. More appropriate in my opinion as the linden trees are still  it their old place.

It is nice and warm at the moment in Gdansk and my windows are open most of the time. The smell of the trees comes to my place which is perfumed with linden fragrance. Lovely...

Snobism, silliness and oysters

 

Today I have been asked by my friend: do you like oysters? It made me smile as I recalled a situation taking place many years ago when I would have categorically answered such a question – Of course not, I am not a snob!

To explain such a strange reaction I need to go back many years to the time when I lived in Paris. This was the first foreign place I lived in after moving from Warsaw to the West. My readers may not know that I was brought up in communistic Poland not being aware of the limitations being exposed over Poles by the regime . I was happy in Poland, you may say, I did not know any better. And I did not. But this is a different story. This one is about oysters.

I despised snobbishness since I can remember. Sometimes I think I am a snob about not being snobbish.  One of friends of my, at the time, husband was a sophisticated, elegant, worldly girl and I decided that she was a snob by my standards. Now when I look at the situation I think that I was just silly and felt inadequate so I had to compensate it somehow by looking down at Charlotte’s (even the name seemed pretentious to me) worldly manners. One autumn she came to visit us in Paris and we went to a coffee place in the Latin Quarter. It was a simple Parisian place but Charlotte knew that they may serve oysters at this time of the year. She asked and got a confirming answer so oysters were ordered. Oh how I was disapproving!! How snobbish can one get?? Oysters?? Ha! I am not sure where I got the idea that to eat oysters is snobbish or exclusive. Maybe it  was one of the communistic, egalitarian ideas which rubbed off on me?

Anyhow the oysters were served and they smelled divine while they were shucked at the table. This is the French way; at least it was at that time.Suddenly the air in the coffee place full of cigarette smoke started to smell of sea, freshness, saltiness and a hint of lemon.

                                                

 

Charlotte was really a nice person, it was me, pehaps, who was not nice towards her. She generously offered me one to try. I still remember the inner fight : it is soooo snobbish to eat that, but it smells soooo good!! I was fighting with my old convictions for a while but I am glad that my silliness was won by the divine smell of oysters which from then on became one of my absolutely favourite foods. Fresh oysters, not cooked in any silly way some consider elegant. Me snobbish this time??? But I really think that fresh oysters are the best, especially the Sydney Rock ones.

Thank you Charlotte for the introduction to the wonderful food and a great lesson of appreciation of  smells and taste of sea captured in oysters. They won over my silliness and sense of insecurity.

Bugle Call from Krakow

For many years I did not think about Poland, for some years I even did not like the country. I felt an Australian even if I still have this funny, some call it charming, Polish accent . I personally do not see much “charming” about my accent but Poland is becoming this way to me. Charming. Also beautiful, sophisticated and sentimental as its people.

Recently I made the second time in my life the choice to live in Australia. I considered that Poland was not my country any more, just the country I was born in. Now I am starting to have doubts, not about living here. Australia is definitely my home. But big part of the space in my heart belongs to Poland and this  I am realising with each day I spent here.

Today, accidentally I changed the radio station and at midday I heard the time signal and Krakow bugle call. This is what I heard as a child and later on, the same sounds the same format.  Something moved in me hearing the sounds I have almost forgotten with time passing.

The Marker Square of Krakow

                                 



Krakow is in my mind the #1 town in Poland. Its XIV century Jagiellonian University, the market Square with its Cloth Hall, monuments, St Mary’s Basilica, doves, horse carriages and many coffee places around the square, the gothic Wawel Castle.... It all makes the town absolutely unique. The sites can be appreciated by Poles and by many visitors from other countries. It is more difficult to appreciate the cultural life of Krakow being a foreigner. In many local cellars there are literary cabarets, jazz concerts, poetry nights. Wonderful, rich, crazy, funny, sad, romantic, sentimental places and people. Krakow is a hermetic place, outsiders are welcome as tourists but not so much welcome into the most important part of the Krakovian life. Any Polish person coming from a place other than Krakow is considered to be an outsider, especially those coming from Warsaw. Those are looked down at, not cultured enough, I suppose.

St Mary's Basilica

                                           

Bugler of current days

The story of the bugle call may be a legend, but it is so much a part of the town history that one doesn’t question it. The St Mary’s Basilica with its two towers always played an important role in the town history. From one of the towers a municipal guardian heralded opening and closing of the city gates. He would also play the bugle in case of a danger. A legend says that in 1240 a bugler played a warning signal seeing Tatars approaching the town. As he played his warning tune an enemy arrow pierced his throat and the tune abruptly stopped. In remembrance of this event the tune is played every hour on the hour towards four directions of the world and interrupted suddenly to commemorate the events from the 1240. 

Bugler of current days

 This is how it sounds
This is a PS written more than one year after the original post but I found out something new about the bugle. Actually not so much about the bugle itself but about Jack Nicholson. He knows the bugle and he can sing it up to its sudden end! Ha! This is surprising. The reason is that he has been for many years a friend of the Polish film director Jerzy Skolimowski. They met in the 60ties when none of them was famous or rich. It was in Cannes and after smoking a few joints on the beach together they became fast friends. I shudder to think what kind of education Jack Nicholson may have received from the Polish larrikin, talented but  crazy and very creative man. And what did they do in Krakow for Jack Nicholson to learn the bugle? I am sure Nicholson knows a few positives about Polish girls.